Southern Ethiopia is a canvas ripped in two. Its landscape is being torn apart by the Great Rift Valley, leaving a trail of lakes where you can go see crocodiles, hippos, and birds – or just drink in the scenery […]

Southern Ethiopia is a canvas ripped in two. Its landscape is being torn apart by the Great Rift Valley, leaving a trail of lakes where you can go see crocodiles, hippos, and birds – or just drink in the scenery from your hotel.

Move east and the Bale Mountains offer rewarding treks across a plateau amid Afro-alpine plants and rare wildlife. It’s here you’ll encounter the world’s rarest canid, the Ethiopian wolf.

But it’s the tribes of the Lower Omo Valley, such as the lip-stretching Mursi and body-painting Karo, that often leave the deepest impression on visitors. To meet them 20 years ago was nearly unheard of. To travel here today is very easy, but still a privilege. And if you really want to get away from it all, you can cross the Omo River and explore the Omo National Park, which feels like the world’s end.

Kibish

The main settlement in this area is the colorful village of Kibish. Set in a bowl in the forested hills, it is a fascinating place populated by the striking Surmi people. Photographing the Surmi attracts a fee of Birr5 per photo of an adult and Birr4 per photo of a child. Photographers likely to take a lot of photos will be better off negotiating a fee for unlimited photos over a set period of time (Birr40 for 10 minutes per person is fair).

Bale Mountains National Park

More than any other park in Ethiopia, this national park is known for its wildlife, but it’s a very beautiful place, too. As you approach from Dodola, ridges to the east are punctuated with fortress-like escarpments, standing out from the gentler, rounded rock pinnacles to the north, and the great wildlife watching commences right from the start when the road cuts through the Gaysay Grassland in the valley between them, which is home to the densest concentration of large mammals in Ethiopia.

Lake Hawasa

With its mountainous backdrop, Lake Awasa is a lovely sight. You could easily spend a few pleasant hours strolling the lakeshore trail at the end of town, watching men fishing from papyrus rafts, seeing the various shorebirds feeding in the reeds, and stopping for fried tilapia and a coffee ceremony at one of the many rustic restaurants.

Fish Market

Lake Awasa’s fishermen head out in their little wooden boats in the afternoon and return the next morning laden with tilapia and catfish. The men are amazingly deft at gutting, scaling, skinning, and flicking the eyes out of their catches. Massive marabou storks do janitorial duty while vervet monkeys beg around the nearby bar. It’s an incredibly photogenic place, but you’ll need a guide to walk around it – contact Tesfaye from Paradise City Tours, who charges Birr50 per person.

Omo National Park

Omo National Park has long been one of the most remote parks in Ethiopia and traveling here can be incredibly tough – but never less than fascinating. Because there is virtually no tourist infrastructure within the park, you will need to be totally self-sufficient with your own food, camping gear, and a reliable, fully-equipped 4WD vehicle. But getting to the park has just got a whole lot easier – with two new bridges over the Omo River, the park can now be reached from the rest of southern Ethiopia, making it more accessible than ever before.

Nechisar Plain

The main wildlife-watching circuit crosses the Bridge of God to the park’s namesake savannah, but the road is so atrocious that many tour companies prefer not to come here; nobody will attempt it when it’s wet. It takes about three hours to reach so there’s no chance of wildlife watching during the morning hours unless you camp.

Sof Omar Cave

Around 100km east of Robe, the fast-flowing Web River runs through a deep gorge and then cuts straight through a limestone hill. Though underground for only 1.5km, the eons of erosion have carved 15km of passages. Proposed for World Heritage listing, the vaulted chambers, flying buttresses, massive pillars, and fluted archway sometimes resemble an Antonio Gaudí cathedral. The cave is venerated by area Muslims due to Sheikh Sof Omar Ahmed reputedly took refuge here in the 11th century. There’s a pilgrimage every November.

Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park

West of Lake Langano lies the twin lakes of Abiata and Shala, which form part of the national park. Identical twins these lakes are not: Shala’s 410-sq-km surface sits within a collapsed volcanic caldera, and depths exceed 260m in some areas, making it the deepest lake in Ethiopia, while Abiata’s highly alkaline waters rest in a shallow pan no more than 14m in depth.

Hayzo

Hayzo is one of the few Southern Nations villages that has succeeded in turning the influx of tourists into a positive experience for all concerned. You can see the traditional way of life with few hassles from begging kids without the need to pay for photos. Guides (Birr200) are mandatory and can be found at the Besa Gamo Chencha Local Guide Association in Dorze, though most people hire a guide (same price) from Mekonen Lodge further up the hill.

Mago National Park

Although by Ethiopian standards wildlife is fairly abundant in this dramatically beautiful 2162-sq-km park, there’s no chance of an East African-safari-style experience. Poaching remains a problem and the thick acacia woodland dominating the plains makes seeing what wildlife remains quite tough. Mammals you can expect to spot are dik-diks, baboons, and guinea fowl. If you’re lucky, you may also see Burchell’s zebras, lesser kudus, defassa waterbucks, gerenuks, and black-and-white colobus.

Crocodile Market

Where the Kulfo River empties into Lake Chamo you’ll find oodles of crocodiles sunning themselves. Both the size of the congregation and the size of the crocs (6m is common) make this one of Africa’s best crocodile displays. There are also plenty of hippos, fish eagles, and shore birds.

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